Higuma, Rue St-Denis / Avenue Roy
Higuma is right next to one of our old favourites, the ultra-popular pasta joint La Popessa. (They’ve since opened a second branch on Stanley just above Rene-Levesque.) In a city crowded with Gap-like Sushi Shops, price competition is fiercer and even old favourites like Mikado aren’t the luxe experiences they used to be. (If I had a nickel for every time I’ve encountered pickled ginger so fibrous it’s like chewing on pencil shavings…)
A typical St-Denis “garden apartment” space, long and narrow, it is minimal and spacious. Upon entering, you notice the open-concept kitchen, and you’re greeted by the chef himself. Walled on one side with beautiful dark-blue slate tiles, with a muted gold-tone smoke hood above a central island, decorated with a row of tealights, the kitchen faces a row of banquettes in neo-Japanese / Frank Lloyd Wright style, roofed with decorative, acid-etched metal panels. The tables have clever slotted edges to add extensions, to accommodate groups of 6 to 8 people). A mix of contemporary-classical and light symphonic music makes an unobtrusive background.
We started with a very hearty miso soup and a tempura appetizer platter which had some odd choices in it, such as red bell peppers - not an optimal flavour choice in my opinion. The main courses were artfully presented with a well-shaped dab of wasabi. Higuma’s menu has several intriguing maki rolls not seen elsewhere - the ‘Satsuma’ roll with sweet potato, avocado and ginger, the ‘Alaska’ roll with red clam, the ‘Calgary’ roll with fried chicken, and an amazingly rich Chinese mushroom roll. The fish was exceptionally fresh and tender, and the rice suprisingly flavourful and well-textured; we both agreed that the clam in the Alaska roll, at least this time, had a slightly oceanic taste, but this could just be due to our taste buds or to seasonal availability - we’ll have to try it again in a month or so.
If you’re a light eater, 2 or 3 rolls will easily satisfy 2 people - choose carefully because portions, at least when we visited, were large; we almost regretted having the soup and appetizer beforehand. Service was friendly, solicitous and attentive. A regular meal with soup, appetizer and 2-3 rolls should cost between $35-40 for 2 people before drinks, tax and tip.
March 24, 2003 2:50 PM
